Brake Light Kill Swith

[corkguykev]

Originally Posted by TSi+WRX

^ This can also be very useful in rear-engagement scenarios.

It's definitely not something to be used brainlessly, but for the right circumstance, with the right pilot, this is a very, very advanced countermeasure.

^X2 on both counts

i wired in a brake light kill switch over the weekend in my car seeing as how i regularly encounter rear laser in my area and my brake lights would certainly tell the tale on me.

i decided to use the fuse as a point where i could break the circuit without harming any wiring in the car. that and i wouldnt have a clue how to find it anyway

at a local auto stores, i got an illuminated rocker switch, an in line fuse holder, some 15amp fuses, a few male and female spade connectors and some 17 amp wire (brake lights are 15 amp fused but the wire has to be able for more or it would be pointless).

i removed the original fuse from the fusebox and replaced it with a few connectors i made from fuse blades soldered to the 17 amp wire and the in line fuse holder with a 15 amp fuse is on that line also. this went on the live point in the fuse box and to the "power" connector on the switch using a female spade connector.

i then ran the other length of wire from the other side of the fuse insert point and crimped another female spade connector to that and connected that to the "accessory" point on the switch

the third connector on the switch is the "ground" which enables the switch to be illuminated when the accessory is switched on so i will know by this if the brake lights are functioning at a glance . i wired this to a bolt on the cars internal bodywork and that works fine too.

as brother TSi+WRX mentioned above, this is something to be used very carefully but it can be extremely valuable in a rear laser scenario, especially in an area where CMs are illegal and braking when hit by laser from behind can tip off the LEO that you knew he was hitting you .

the beauty of this installation is that it can be removed very easily and undone completely by just popping the original fuse back in place again leaving no trace

[Nighthawk243]

That actually makes alot of sense... I personally was trying to find where my lights ran since the cables to the switches for my actual brake pedal are too short to tap and splice. The rerouted fuse trick does seem to be the good idea.

Just remember to run an inline fuse just to keep that safety barrier.

Once I get this rear quarter damage fixed, I'll have to look into doing similiar in setup.

[corkguykev]

Originally Posted by Nighthawk243

That actually makes alot of sense... I personally was trying to find where my lights ran since the cables to the switches for my actual brake pedal are too short to tap and splice. The rerouted fuse trick does seem to be the good idea.

Just remember to run an inline fuse just to keep that safety barrier.

Once I get this rear quarter damage fixed, I'll have to look into doing similiar in setup.

the inline fuse is vital to ensure safety in the circuit but i keep the original in the car to replace it should the need arise

[TSi+WRX]

And here I am, thinking I was gonna post here, to say "go look at corkguykev's new setup!"

I'm late to the party, as-usual.

[corkguykev]

Originally Posted by TSi+WRX

And here I am, thinking I was gonna post here, to say "go look at corkguykev's new setup!"

I'm late to the party, as-usual.

i dont think theres anything left to do to my car at this stage . next LEO that nabs me should get a gold medal though

[CJR238]

Originally Posted by '09 Milan

The point is you shouldn't need a relay, but whatever. Good luck.

X2, i didn't use a relay for mine.

['09 Milan]

Originally Posted by CJR238

X2, i didn't use a relay for mine.

Good to hear Using a relay for this is like using a sawed-off shotgun to swat a fly

Just remember to always keep safety first

[REBinc]

I agree is would be possible to do without a relay, but I don't want some flipping huge switch. I want to use a 50mA switch that I can fit perfectely behind the columns on my steering wheel so I never have to take my hands of the wheels. Unless I'm missing something obvious my brake circuit will kill the 50mA switch.

Also for nose dives, I have stiff racing springs all around, so body movement should be minimal.

['09 Milan]

Originally Posted by REBinc

Unless I'm missing something obvious my brake circuit will kill the 50mA switch.

Any MECP certified tech should be able to do this for you with a standard 3.00 switch from Radio Shack. You don't need a 'flipping huge switch'

[CJR238]

this is what you want: